The understated bride

Hajra Hayat isn’t out there to create a bang or hoopla. She isn’t one of those to stick out a feather, expose a leg or come up with crazy colour combinations just to attract attention and establish herself as a fashion “visionary” simply because she’s also not a fortune teller — she is a designer who designs for the ‘now’.Hajra Hayat is known to design outfits that are “wearable” as her outfits are always aesthetically pragmatic. Despite several innovations, in a show this Lahore-based designer held in Karachi recently, it was evident that she hasn’t deviated much from her design philosophy.Rang De, the official title of the Hajra Hayat Winter 2008 bridal wear collection was shown, at the onset of the wedding season, in collaboration with Shehzad Roy’s Zindagi Trust. After speeches relating the objective and ideology of the Trust, including one by Roy himself, those present were treated to a performance by him to three songs, two of which were performed live with his guitarist Imran Akhund.Of these, one was a cover of a Beegees classic re-made by an equally popular cover by Boyzone, Words. As much as this scribe appreciates Roy’s inherent love for the song, covering a classic and performing it is an intimidating feat in itself and unfortunately, Roy simply lacked the ‘soul’ needed to make his cover of it his own. He then performed his most popular song to date, Sali, disappointingly on DAT. Thankfully, it was the last song performed by him and the Hajra Hayat Rang De fashion show finally kicked off.The opening segment showed a white, western-inspired collection. There was no over-the-top embroidery or embellishments; the line was simple, with elegantly cut shirts over straight-pants or capris. For a moment it seemed as though Hajra had toned down for her showing in the city but not for long. The embroidery and bling increased as the show advanced. The predominant colours Hajra has played with in the collection are white, pink, red and blue. Most of the saris that were shown carried deep-cut blouses at the back with intricate embroidery done around the borders and across the back as well.An interesting combination was a red and blue bridal outfit, a combination which has been a tad overdone but was manageable in this case. What stood out from the bridal section was a simple white, lightly embellished, long-skirted outfit worn by model Faiza Ansari with an equally simple dupatta over her head. The outfit was perfect for the more untraditional bride looking to separate herself from the norm. Another eye-catching outfit was a pink-bloused red ghaghra worn by Sunita Marshall with a pink border towards the hemline of the ghaghra with circular mirrored-disks bordering it.At this point one has to mention that out of all the models Faiza Ansari seemed to be having fun. She swirled her pink sari when walking the ramp adding a little bit of extra ‘oomph’ to it. On the other hand, despite having seen Nadya Hussain several times on the runway, and despite being tall and beautiful to look at, she unfortunately does not understand the importance of a good posture or timing when strutting down the ramp. She walks while leaning oddly backwards, resulting in her lower body leading the way with her upper body following. She also tends to walk painfully slow, disregarding the pace that the other models were keeping or even the overall beat of the song being played. Despite having been around for quite some time, Nadya is desperately in need of lessons on how to walk on the runway.Another interesting thing to note was that most of the people attending were not from the local fashion fraternity, they were socialites and individuals from the corporate sector, people who are genuine buyers of designer-wear outfits.Overall, the collection wasn’t over-the-top or a work of a creative genius. It was, however, creatively done with outfits which people could actually wear (as opposed to ‘just see’). The western-inspired line was a welcome addition and since it seemed to be fused with certain eastern cuts as well, one can be sure these would be ideally suited for the youth of today – the ‘Minglish’ speaking crowd. If simplicity in design is the hardest thing to carry, then Hajra Hayat carries it really well.

First Published:Images December 2, 2007