How to build a modded PC?

If, like me, you're into computers, you might be interested in PC modding. If you've seen articles or been to trade shows, you'll know that computers today are more than just beige boxes. Now they're a vehicle for creativity, complete with neon lights, LEDs, UV lights and UV reactive cords, not to mention crazy cases.
This guide isn't about creating a work of art: it's about building a good-looking PC using parts that you can buy in stores. And if you're into gaming like I am, why not strike some fear into your gaming partners by showing up with a tricked-out PC?
I went to my local computer shop, told them I wanted to build a modded system and asked them what I needed. In fact, there are a huge number of choices, so they asked what I wanted to do with the system. My answer: "I want a machine that looks cool and can be used for casual gaming."
I decided to go for the Intel® Core™2 Extreme processor and selected an Intel® Desktop Board 975XBX.
The next decision was what I wanted the PC to look like inside and out. In the end I chose a black case, but the decision was tough. I would have liked a case with extra cooling—in this case a duct that directs cooler air from outside the case right to the processor. My case didn't have that, so I ended up buying some extra fans. (To check the different temperature zones of most new Intel Desktop Boards, download the Desktop Control Center utility.)
Hardware checklist
Not every processor will work with every motherboard. Not every motherboard will fit in every case. If you're not sure what components you need, ask the salespeople to help you pick the right components. You can also use the Motherboard & Barebones Selector Guide to help you.
So, let's get shopping. You will need:
The fastest processor you can afford
Motherboard
Hard drive
RAM (more is better)
DVD/CD rewritable drive
Case
Power supply (if not included with case)
The fastest graphics card you can afford
Fans with LEDs (this is a mod after all)
Light strobe (ditto)
Operating system
Anti-static wrist guard
Philips screwdriver
Optional:
Second DVD/CD ROM drive
Second hard drive
Before you start, remind yourself that a computer is really a pretty simple thing. You can break it down like this:
Power comes from the power supply and goes to all the drives and devices.
The drives send and receive information to the processor through the motherboard.
Data is output to your video and audio sources.
Now let's get down to business.
Step by step
1. Install the power supply
o If your case doesn't come with a power supply, buy one with a high wattage rating (500W isn't too much). Remember, you'll be powering a lot of lights and fans.
o Installation was easy. Just four screws. But the power supply's wires look intimidating (there must be more than 30). Don't be put off. Just check where all the wires lead to and connect them systematically. The manuals that come with your equipment should help.
2. Install the motherboard
o I opened the case and laid it down in the best position for installing the motherboard.
o I got out the motherboard, being careful to use my anti-static wrist guard, and checked out all the parts. You never use them all. My motherboard came with a cool front panel with extra USB ports, headphone and microphone jacks and a FireWire port. There was also a port panel for the back of the case.
o The mounting hardware for the motherboard came with my case. I got all that out in front of me.
o I took out the rear 'dummy' plate in my case where the motherboard's rear ports need to go.
o I gathered the mounting riser pins that came with the case. It wasn't clear where these were supposed to go, so I laid the motherboard in gently to figure it out. I then screwed in as many riser pins as I could. You want your motherboard to be very secure and well supported when you start pushing in components.
o I laid the motherboard down on the riser pins and attached it with the screws.
3. Install the processor, heat sink and RAM
o Most people are surprised at the small size of a computer's CPU. It's also very delicate, so use an anti-static wrist guard when handling the processor.
o I read the instructions, paying careful attention to how to correctly position the processor and insert it so I could get it right first time. Many sources suggest you install the processor and heat sink before installing the motherboard. This is probably to prevent damage to the motherboard if you press too hard. So be careful however you do it.
o Next came the heat sink. This is huge in comparison to the processor. It has a large fan on the back. To install it, I positioned it over four plastic clips and pressed down firmly to snap all four clips over the heat sink's base.
o I secured the heat sink by tightening the black locking screws that came with it.
o The heat sink's fan of course needs power. Referring to the schematic, I connected the fan's three-pin power connector to a header on the motherboard.
o I had two 512MB modules to install for a total of 1GB of memory. My board had four memory slots. The motherboard's directions used color to indicate which slots get filled first.
4. Connecting the ports, drive and cards
o I installed the front panel USB/FireWire ports that came with the motherboard. I had a choice of a black or white cover to match my computer. (I went with black, of course.) Then I followed the diagram to correctly connect the ports to the motherboard.
o While I was there, I followed the instructions for connecting the front panel lights and power button to the motherboard.
o I installed the floppy drive/card reader. The built-in reader is a smart idea that gives floppy drives a new role.
o To install the DVD/CD-RW drive, I opened the other side of the case. It was the only way I could secure the drive properly.
o Then I attached the two serial ATA hard drives in neighboring bays.
o I connected power feeds from the power supply to each of the drives.
o I connected all the drives to the motherboard, following the schematics. The serial ATA drives use a small cable to connect to each other and the motherboard. There are no jumpers to worry about. Each drive connects with its own serial ATA connector.
o Then I installed the graphics card. It was a PCI Express* card that had to be connected to the PCI Express bus.
5. Installing the lights
o Now for the fun part. The lights plug into the extra power connectors from the power supply. You can daisy-chain the lights, but don't put more than two lights per outlet as they will only shine dimly. That's why a big power supply is handy: more power equals more lights.
o I bought cable sleeves and ties to make everything neat and tidy. I closed the case, plugged in the computer and connected the keyboard, mouse and speakers. It was time to flip the switch.
o This was the moment of truth—and everything worked!
6. Installing the operating system and setting up RAID
o Unlike a PC you buy from your computer store, a homemade one means installing the operating system yourself. I inserted my Microsoft Windows* XP Professional CD into the DVD/CD drive. It didn't boot. No mystery there. The BIOS was set to boot on the floppy drive. I went into the BIOS and set the primary boot drive to the DVD/CD drive.
o I rebooted and the computer began to load Windows XP Pro. I mentioned before that I bought two serial ATA hard drives. The reason for doing this was so I could set them in a RAID configuration. (RAID, by the way, stands for Redundant Arrays of Independent Disks.) During the setup, Windows asks you if you have RAID drivers to install. I clicked "F6" for yes and followed the instructions.
o I decided to go with RAID 0. This allows my computer to read and write data in parallel from both drives. With two drives recording or throwing out data at the same time, RAID 0 delivers better storage performance and faster data transfers than a single drive. A RAID 1 setting, on the other hand, protects against drive failures by mirroring all the data between the two drives. This is a good feature as well, especially if you're storing family photos or other irreplaceable data on your computer.
No need to go into more detail about setting up Windows. Lots of sites provide great information on that. Microsoft has made it pretty automatic. It took about an hour, but went very smoothly.
I like gaming, so I was looking forward to showing off my new machine. Modding can turn your computer from a passive, humming box into something dynamic and expressive. Now, when I play a game or work on the computer, all kinds of lights go off as elements of the hard drive are activated.
As always, your experiences may differ depending on what you buy. Also the options are extensive, giving you endless opportunities to get creative and get building.